Embracing autumn the French way

Hello readers,

It’s officially October, and autumn is finally settling in. The leaves are turning brown, the temperatures are starting to align with the season and, after what felt like an endless summer, there is something rather nice about finally getting a bit of relief from the heat.

It’s always a little bittersweet when summer ends, even if this year’s was particularly drawn out due to climate change. But there’s something about it getting dark so much earlier that gives me a slight pre-winter depression. Waking up when it’s still dark, then leaving work just as the sun is beginning to set, is never my favourite part of the year. 

Still, I’ve decided to make the most of the months ahead before we really get into the depths of winter. And for me, that starts with cooking. I haven’t wanted to eat a warm meal, let alone stand in front of a hot stove, for a very long time. But recently, I got back into the swing of things and made a mushroom risotto over the weekend. Keeping the broth on a gentle boil and constantly stirring the rice so that it absorbed the liquid properly is definitely not a summer-friendly activity.

Nine delicious seasonal French dishes to try this autumn

But in October, it felt almost comforting. And since I was cooking this dish for my Breton friends, they obviously had to bring over a bottle of cider – not sure what the Italians would say about this particular pairing, but after all, it is harvest season. 

And it’s not only cider season. It’s also wine season – and by that, I mean it’s time for the annual ‘Foire aux vins’. For many people, the autumn wine fairs are a great opportunity to buy bottles that would normally be a little too expensive, or simply stock up on old favourites. The tradition dates back to 1973, when E.Leclerc organised the first Foire aux vins in Brittany. The idea was partly to make better-quality wine more accessible to ordinary shoppers, and it quickly spread throughout French supermarkets.

Foire aux vins: How to find bargains on high quality wine in France

Living in Paris, there is always a caviste, a wine shop, somewhere around the corner. On special occasions, or when I’m invited to a dinner party, I’ll happily indulge in the experience. I like telling the person behind the counter what I’m cooking, or what I’m about to eat, and letting them choose whichever bottle they think will pair best.

It’s not something I do often, though. I truly believe that, especially in France, you can find a perfectly good bottle of wine for around €10 at the supermarket. I’m certainly not a wine expert myself, but I know what I like. For reds, I tend to go for a Pic Saint-Loup, a Saint-Amour or a Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. For whites, I’ll spend a little more and opt for a Petit Chablis or a Bourgogne Aligoté. In my personal opinion, you can’t really go wrong with any of them.

Eight tips on buying wine in a French supermarket

I know that in the US, autumn (or the fall) is very much a thing. There’s pumpkin spice in your coffee, pumpkin-flavoured everything and an entire industry dedicated to making sure you know that fall has arrived. Unfortunately – or fortunately, depending on who you ask – growing up in France, I was never really accustomed to those flavours. I know many people enjoy them however, and you can certainly find pumpkin spice and other American-style autumn treats in France if you know where to look.

A guide for how to survive fall in France for homesick Americans

But when I think of autumn in France, I don’t think of pumpkin spice. I think of chestnuts. When I was a little girl, my mother would take me to the woods on the weekends. We would play in the fallen leaves and pick up chestnuts. My favourites were always the smoothest, roundest and prettiest ones I could find. There’s an old tradition that says keeping a chestnut in your pocket or bag can bring good luck. My mom always did it, so naturally, I started doing it too.

Another autumn activity my mom used to take me to was La Ferme de Gally, a farm just outside Paris. It is part working farm, part educational space and part cueillette – essentially a place where you can walk through the fields and orchards and pick your own seasonal fruit, vegetables and flowers.

11 ways to make the most of autumn in France

Apples are one of the big autumn attractions, with different varieties becoming ready to pick throughout the season. I remember sitting in an empty wheelbarrow with my friend while my mother pushed us through the apple orchards. Then we would start picking. We would always leave with bags filled with apples, fresh apple juice and, most importantly, a collection of memories that have stayed with me until today.